Fort Raleigh

A few weeks ago, while in vacation, we went to Fort Raleigh in Manteo, North Carolina. We went late in the day, and did not participate in any of the ranger led tours or activities. Although Jamestown is the first permanent English colony in the Americas, Fort Raleigh was the English's first attempt. In 1586 the group of colonists lead by John White set out for Virginia. When the colonists arrived in the New World, they were forced to stop at Fort Raleigh, previously a base for privateering. Governor White was forced to return to England for supplies and once he arrived in England he was not able to return to his colony until 1590 because of war with Spain. When he did return, the settlement had been completely abandoned. The only clue was the word "CROATOAN" carved in a tree. The colonists were never found.

There is a small visitor's center with displays about artifacts found at the site, tools, Native Americans, and depictions of the Native Americans by Thomas Hariot, the scientist and chronicler of the ill-fated voyage. There is a reconstructed moat, earthen wall and palisade, like White found when he returned to Fort Raleigh in 1590. There are trails through the woods, with markers that identify many of the flora and how the Natives and early European settlers used the plants for food, medicine, and building materials. Many of the markers include first-hand accounts of how profitable harvesting the lumber of the region could be.

The boys probably enjoyed the nature trail the best. They would run from one sign to the next. Luckily the markers didn't include lengthy text. My 9-year old thought it was interesting to see the way they used to spell (like "f" being used for "s"). They liked the fort, but were disappointed they couldn't climb on it. My husband and the boys did have fun plotting how they would be able to sneak over the moat, earthen wall and palisades. We talked about what could have happened to the colonists.

Located on the Fort Raleigh complex are the Elizabethan Gardens. The boys and I have gone several years in a row. We love it. There are many beautiful flowers to see. It is a mature garden with wonderful large trees. One big oak tree, that is 300 years old, has a hole in its trunk that was patched with bricks. There is a fountain in the sunken garden and a gazebo overlooking Roanoke Sound where the boys like to take a rest. A beautiful statue of Virginia Dare, the first English child born in the New World and White's granddaughter born just before he returned to England for supplies, is tucked in the beautiful foliage. Last year, my oldest son, got a houseplant as his souvenir. It is some kind of geranium, and it is still living.

The Waterside Theatre, where the play Lost Colony is produced each summer, is also located on the complex. The play tells a fictional story (based on first-hand accounts of those who visited the colony before and after its disappearance) of those first colonists. We haven't gone to the play. I wanted to go this year, but decided it might not be a good idea to take my four year old. I think next year he will be able to sit still for two hours and not be distressed by it.

The Elizabethan Gardens and Waterside Theatre are not managed by the National Park service. There are separate fees associated with attending the play and visiting the gardens. If you are in the Outer Banks area, I would highly suggest visiting Fort Raleigh.

Visit the National Park website at www.nps.gov. Here you can find links to all the national parks and national historic sites throughout the country.